Glossary of Jewelry Terms

Austrian crystal: Trade name for lead crystal cut with precise edges and angles at the Swarovski factory, located in Wattens in the Austrian Tyrolean region. Invented by Daniel Swarovski in 1895. Known for quality, clarity and brilliance.

Bezel: Although it is now often used to refer to the entire ring setting, the bezel is more accurately the term for the metal case in which the gem is set. The ring of metal which surrounds the stone is called the “collet.”

Box Clasp: A method of connecting two ends of a chain. One end has a box with an opening which is notched on the top of the box. The other end has a flat piece of metal which has been folded over to form a spring with a knob at the end. The folded metal spring slips into the hole in the box with the knob sticking out through the notch in the top. The compressed spring holds the two ends in place. To open, press the knob. The connection is typically supplemented by a figure 8 catch, sometimes two.

Box Chain: A chain in which each link is wide and square so that it resembles a box.

Brilliance: The amount of sparkle a stone gives off through the reflection and refraction of light.

Brilliant-cut: A cut gem stone which has 56-58 facets to maximize the volume of light that is reflected from inside the stone and thus produces the greatest brilliance. The most common shape is round (often called round-cut), but oval, marquise, pear (also known as teardrop) and heart shapes are becoming more common.

Briolette: A gemstone cut with triangular facets into the shape of a teardrop or elongated pendant.

Byzantine Chain: An intricately designed chain composed of two pairs of oval-shaped links that are linked together. Each pair is then parted to allow a large thick oval link to be attached to the other pair.

Cable Chain: A chain made of rounded links of uniform size. This tends to be what most people think of when they think of a chain.

Cabochon: A stone cut into the shape of a small dome in a round, oval, rectangle, triangle or teardrop shape without any facets. This style is commonly used with stone likes opals, moonstone, jade and turquoise. Less frequently emeralds, amethyst and garnets are seen in cabochon.

Claddagh Ring: A traditional Irish ring dating back to the 17th century. Commonly given in pledging friendship or troth. If worn on the right hand and with the crown toward the body, denotes that one’s heart is not spoken for. If worn on the right hand and turned the other way, then love is being considered. Wearing the ring on the left ring finger, with the heart turned toward the body indicates that one’s heart is spoken for.

Cubic Zirconia (CZ): A clear, hard, mass-produced gem stone cut to resemble a diamond. Most CZs are colorless and its size is measured in carats like diamonds. Because CZs are a very dense stone, they weight more than diamonds. They are not as hard as a diamond and so one’s skin oils, soap and dirt will cause a film which dulls the surface. The best cleaning solution is liquid dish soap, but other gem and jewelry cleaners can be used.

Curb Chain: A chain composed of oval-shaped links that are twisted and often diamond-cut so that they lie flat.

Cushion Cut: Gem stone is usually square or slightly rectangular. Typically has rounded corners and larger facets.

Diamond Cut: In gem stones, it means the same as “brilliant cut.” In terms of diamond cut objects, it means that part of the object has been cut into a flat diamond shape.

Diamond-Cut Rope: A chain in which a portion of the chain link is cut into a flat diamond-shaped face and polished to a high shine. Emerald Cut: Gem stone whose outline is square or linear and facets are linear to the girdle of the stone, often use in cutting emeralds.

Figaro chain: Popular silver link chain design that incorporates a pattern of 2 or 3 small circular links with 1 elongated oval link. The most notable figaro chains are manufactured in Italy. They are usually worn by men and are often adorned with pendants such as crosses and medallions.

Figure 8 safety catch: A type of safety catch in which a hinged wire in the shape of a figure eight snaps over a pin. The wide end of the eight connects at the bottom to the hinge, and the smaller end of the eight slips over the pin to hold the clasp closed.

Foxtail chain: An intricately woven chain made up of three rows of links. The top and bottom row are oval-shaped links lying on each other at a 45 degree angle, but not linked together. The center row is a set of flat connecting rings set an opposing angle and flush with each other which bind the top and bottom row together.

Fresh water pearl: A pearl produced by a mollusk that inhabits fresh water, such as a lake or river, as opposed to sea water. These pearls are usually shaped like an uneven grain of rice and unlike the saltwater oyster, which normally produces only one or two pearls, each mussel can simultaneously produce many. Grown in many countries, such as the U.S., Japan, China and Ireland. Also found in a variety of colors like blue, lavender, violet, rose and gray. They can be easily dyed and are much less expensive than their seawater counterparts.

Lab-created: See synthetic.

Liquid Silver: The term given to strands of small silver beads where were made by carefully slicing tubes of sterling silver in 1/8-inch pieces, strung together.

Mabé: A Japanese term for cultured pearls which are cultured against the shell so that only half a pearl is formed resembling a half-sphere.

Marina Chain: A chain composed of flat ovals with a flat bar in the middle of the ring.

Marquise: Gem stone shaped like a little boat, named for the Marquise de Pompadour, mistress of King Louis XV.

Omega Chain: A chain made up of rectangular smooth round metal plates sets side by side and crimped along the ends onto a strip of metal mesh. The end result is a fairly stiff, yet flexible circle which needs to be worn high around the neck since it is not nearly as attractive when viewed from the edges.

Pavé: A kind of setting in which small gemstones are set very close together resembling the paving done with bricks.

Poison Ring: A small hinged box secured to a ring which is made to resemble a normal setting, but can be opened to reveal a small space which conceivably could be used to hold poison. Also know as a prayer ring.

Princess Cut: An increasingly popular gem stone cut which accents a gem stone brilliance. It is a square or nearly square stone with pointed corners. Typically has a fairly large flat table or pavilion.

Radiant cut: A rectangular cut gemstone with a total of 70 facets combining the shape of an emerald cut and the sparkle of a brilliant cut.

Rhodium: A member of the platinum family which can be applied to base metals to give it a shiny white surface like platinum. Commonly used with silver jewelry to create a finish which is tarnish resistant and has a luster like that of white gold or platinum.

Rolo Link Chain: A chain composed of individually linked round or oval chains resembling a standard Cable Chain, but with thicker rings.

Round Cut: See brilliant cut.

San Marco Chain: A unique type of chain where each link is long and rounded, resembling a puffed grain of rice with a flat bottom. The links are arranged next to each other at a 45 degree angle and attached to one another with a sturdy flat pin underneath.

Serpentine Chain: A series of small, flat, s-shaped links set very closely together and held in place by a second set of the same links set very closely together underneath them.

Shank: The part of a ring that encircles the finger but does not include the setting.

Silver: One of three precious metals – gold and platinum – which has been used to make jewelry for thousands of years. It is much harder than gold, but still too soft to be used in a pure form. Reacts with sulfur in the air to cause tarnishing or oxidization.

Silver tone: Jewelry finished with a silver color which has very little measure of weight in silver.

Silver finish: Jewelry that has the look of silver, but no actual silver content.

Snake Chain: A snake chain is made up of round wavy metal rings joined side by side, forming a flexible tube with a smooth scaly texture like snake skin.

Sterling Silver jewelry: Silver alloyed with other metals to improve its durability. Sterling silver is the industry standard containing 925 parts silver and 75 parts of another metal, typically copper. Pieces made from sterling silver are usually marked 925 to assure silver content. Can also be used to plate other metal.

Synthetic: Gem stones produced in a laboratory rather than found in nature. They are not considered “fake” because they have exactly the same chemical characteristics as their natural counterpart. They are, however, usually flawless and much less expensive. The most common synthetic gems are emeralds, rubies, sapphires and opals.

Singapore Chain: A style of chain where each link is composed of a series of flat, diamond-cut, interwoven concentric loops.

Taxco: The center of the silversmithing world in Mexico. Silver produced there up until 1970 is considered collectible.

Vermeil: A substantial amount of real gold which has been chemically bonded to sterling silver. Since the finish looks just like solid gold, the price is nearly the only difference.